My holding of this wine is decreasing, and since I’ve been drinking it since it was imported into Australia (and into my cellar) 30 years ago it’s hardly surprising. What is surprising is the way it’s showing no signs of moving into senescence. The colour is still bright, and the fruit is still vigorous and fresh, red and black cherries, with silky tannins and a lingering finish. It’s been said many times that there’s nothing to be embarrassed about if you mistake a mature Rhône shiraz (or Hermitage if it come from thence) with a Burgundy if served blind. A final plus (or key) was the cork, coming out in one piece.

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