Les Boudouts (sometimes called Aux Boudots) is hard up against the border of Vosne Romanée Malconsorts, and a hop, step and a jump to the east, La Tâche.

Boudots has all the characteristics of Vosne Romanée, a world apart from the stricter message of Nuits-St-Georges. The 2002 is a very, very good vintage, which gives both the place and the year equal space. The spices have a special flavour, the tannins genteel, perfectly balanced, silk as much as velvet.

I’d happily drink this wine any time, anywhere.

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