Having consumed a bottle of the ’05 sibling of this wine (a very good vintage, and better rated), I wasn’t expecting this wine to match it, but I was in for some pleasant surprises. For one thing, the colour is still remarkably deep, the bouquet heady with woodland and earth spices that are threaded through the dark small berry fruits, forming a daisy chain with the fine but positive tannins, and the whole bunch ferment notes.

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