The most beautiful semillon ever made, making its future over the next 15 years of its life as certain as the sun’s rising. Read my lips: there’s no ‘arguably’ or ‘one of the greatest’ – this is the white wine equivalent of Penfolds 1962 Bin 60A at its prime 15 years ago.
Bright, light green-gold, it sends wave after wave of citrus – lime, lemon – pouring across the mouth, and repeating the same magical flavour-set on the ridiculously long aftertaste. It is a distillation of normal taste sensations because of its high acidity and low pH (sorry about these nerdy bits, just trust me) which set the flavours with diamond clarity and will never change. What will change ever so slowly is the uptake of textural complexity with traces of lightly browned buttered toast. Will that make it even better? No, it won’t. It’ll make it different. We need Dr Who’s Tardis with the now and the future next to each other.