This is an outrageously beautiful wine, a strong contender for my Desert Island wine (if you only had one bottle…).

Its fruit/acidity/sweetness is like a ballet dancer in Swan Lake, gliding across the senses in an unbroken stream of sheer bliss. JJ Prum and Dr Loosen both make ausleses that are beautifully built, with joyous trumpets of mouth-watering flavour, but this is another thing altogether. Its sweetness has a delicacy that is hard to describe other than acidity that is of itself sweet. 12 years old? Not a bit of it. It is so mouth-wateringly fresh and vibrant. And, praise be, it’s screwcapped.

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