The deep colour is no false dawn. Red (cherry) and purple (plum) fruits dispute the headlines, neither losing. The palate is rich and sumptuous, and just when you think the fruit might be over the top, ripe tannins take the field, providing balance, texture and structure. Volnay is my favourite commune of the Cote de Beaune, and has several faces: fine, elegant and very long in the mouth is one such. This is another, part reflecting winemaker Pascal Marchand’s vinous preferences, partly illustrating why, in the 19th century, Volnay was ranked above most Cote de Nuits communes, largely because of its longevity. Back to the future?
2018 Marchand & Burch Volnay Fremiets Premier Cru
