Talking about the “riesling renaissance” has long been akin to crying wolf. But there’s a twist: decreasing plantings and production has created a demand imbalance for the variety. The 2020 vintage crush of 16,819 tonnes was a decline of 28 per cent – greater than any other top 10 variety, red or white. Chardonnay declined by 19 per cent – but its average price per tonne was $447, and riesling’s $990.
While wine professionals love riesling, young people believe it’s boring and old hat, preferring pinot grigio, prosecco and sauvignon blanc. I’m convinced riesling has been convicted in absentia – that those who think it’s boring haven’t tasted it.
Two of the Clare Valley’s biggest guns, Grosset and Jim Barry, have thrown away the book and explored the variety in new ways. The Barry family collaborated with the ebullient prince of Germany’s Mosel Valley, Dr Ernst (Ernie) Loosen; they agreed to make a Clare Valley estate riesling using the techniques Loosen uses in Mosel, while Loosen, during a sojourn in Australia, made a Mosel riesling using Clare Valley vinification. “In more than 150 years, Clare’s never made a riesling like this,” say the Barrys. Their Mosel correlative was fermented with cultured yeast in stainless steel, with less than 4g/l of residual sugar, and was matured for 24 months in tank.
The Grosset experiment began four years ago at the suggestion of Jeffrey Grosset’s daughter Georgie. Two of the three estate riesling vineyards are planted with a mix of clones, and while fermented separately, the clones are blended within each vineyard. Georgie proposed trialling single clone batches (pre-blending) to see how they developed over time. The single clone from the Rockwood Vineyard consistently had more concentration and persistence, albeit with less overt fruit. So this leaves the question open: will it become part of the portfolio?
2019 Grosset G110 Clare Valley Riesling
If ever a riesling deserved the “iron fist in a velvet glove” aphorism, this is it. Its power and depth hits immediately, and continues through to the incredibly long finish and aftertaste. A remarkable riesling. 1100 bottles made. 12.8% alc, screwcap 97 points, drink to 2039, $105
2017 Jim Barry Loosen Barry Wolta Wolta Clare Valley Riesling
The Australian face of the Loosen/Barry collaboration. Ernie selected a patch of south-facing vines and wild-fermented and matured the wine in a foudre (shipped from his cellar) for 12 months, then 10 months in tank. Magic in the mouth; simply beautiful. Its vinification looks back centuries to when German riesling was released after 50 years’ maturation. 12.5% alc, screwcap 98 points, drink to 2050, $120
2016 Jim Barry Loosen Barry Walhalla Mosel Dry Riesling
The other (Mosel Valley) face of the collaboration, with fruit from Erdener Treppchen made in the Australian fashion. It’s not fair to taste this in the shadow of the wonderful Australian wine. 12% alc, cork 92 points, drink to 2036, $55
