When starting a new winery from the ground up a key decision is whether it should include its own vineyard or rely on contract-grown grapes. Similar decisions include part own-vineyard, part contract-grown, or whether to postpone a final choice for some years. When Flametree was established in 2007 it decided to rely on contract-grown grapes – although this was an uncommon choice in Margaret River at that time. The change in the supply/demand balance since then has been driven by a rapid increase in vineyard plantings.
Chief Winemaker Cliff Royle moved from Voyager Estate in 2009 after many years there, working with 112ha of immaculately manicured vines. He says ‘Although we have at times contemplated buying our own vineyard (and may still do yet), we have thus far been happy with this decision. When you own your own (sic) land and vines, you are locked into that property and all of its inherent features and risks. Even though there are a wide range of vineyard management techniques which can be used to optimise fruit quality, each block has a finite capability which is significantly dictated by geology and climate.’
There are added reasons for the contract-grown package. First is the shape of the Margaret River region. Its 120km-long western boundary hugs the Pacific Ocean, but by the time you reach Karridale in the south of the region, the growing season is distinctly cooler than that of Yallingup in the northern end. Royle neatly summarises Flametree’s practices thus ‘We generally source our white grape varieties from the mid to southern parts of the region, and our red grape varieties from the south (shiraz) to the north (cabernet).’ The second reason is the ability to react far more quickly to changes in the marketplace. Thirdly, and most importantly, it reduces costs at the time when the new winery endeavours to build brand awareness with promotional activities which typically cost more than expected.
But does quality suffer? Well, Flametree’s first-up 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot won the Jimmy Watson Trophy in 2008.
2019 Flametree S.R.S. Wilyabrup Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon
A gentle fermentation regime was held for 30 days on skins, and pressed to French oak (50% new) for 12 months maturation. A beautifully modulated wine, with silky tannins sliding through the cassis-accented fruit. Lovely pristine cabernet.
97 points, drink to 2039, 14% alc, Screwcap, $85
2021 Flametree S.R.S. Karridale Margaret River Sauvignon Blanc
Half fermented in stainless steel barrels and a specific sauvignon blanc yeast, the other half moderate solids wild fermented in new and used French oak. It’s all about texture that relentlessly imposes its thumbprint, fruit fragments – pink grapefruit and apple skin – flying in all directions allied with acidity.
96 points, drink to 2028, 12% alc, Screwcap, $40
2021 Flametree Margaret River Chardonnay
Wild fermented free run cloudy juice; 22% in new French oak, a small parcel whole berry fermented, 12% mlf, and 8 months in barrel. The bouquet is very complex, with funky/struck match notes, the dominant grapefruit flavours at ease with those notes, and a structured mouthfeel.
95 points, drink to 2031, 13% alc, Screwcap, $30
