The present Holm Oak property in Tasmania’s Tamar Valley gained its name from a planting of oak trees in the 1930s, intended to provide oak for tennis racquets. It came to nothing, and 50 years later 2ha of cabernet sauvignon and 0.4ha of pinot noir were planted. In 2004 Ian and Robyn Wilson purchased the property with a succession plan in place, their daughter Rebecca (Bec) already an experienced winemaker having worked on the mainland and in California.
She arrived at Holm Oak in 2006, and the onsite winery was completed just in time for the 2007 vintage. In the same year her partner and agronomist Tim Duffy arrived to join Bec and they set about expanding the vineyard from 6a to 15ha. Pride of place now sees 7ha of pinot noir, with MV6 clone leading the census, plus D5V12, 114, 115, 777, D4V2 and 521. In 1991 1ha of riesling had been planted, the balance no includes pinot gris (2ha), chardonnay (1.5ha), arneis (0.3ha) plus smaller plantings making up the balance.
Prior to the completion of the winery, the wines had been competently contract-made, the vineyard likewise. It’s a very different story today, with shoot thinning, leaf plucking (on the western side) and removal of shoulder bunches of pinot noir (if needed). The partnership between winemaker and viticulturist has had multiple synergies, as success has followed success. Then there’s the Southern Ocean, a vast air conditioner set on cool, buffering the heat spikes that are part of summer in the south-eastern corner of the mainland.
Sparkling wine used 37% of the total crush, which left pinot noir on its own with 28%, sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot gris in a three way share of 8% each, riesling 6%. One simple summary is sparkling, red and white wine, each with a third share. And Tamar Valley is the place to be, with almost 40% of the 2022 crush.
2022 Holm Oak Riesling
A flawless riesling, the bouquet highly floral with white flower and apple blossom to start the conversation before the sheer power of the mouth-watering lime juice and Meyer lemon take control. The length is prodigious, the flavours lingering for a seeming eternity.
97 points, drink to 2042, 11.8% alc, Screwcap, $30
2021 Holm Oak Pinot Noir
A magic carpet of seven clones (in separate blocks) were picked between March 20 and April 16. All batches were destemmed and were hand plunged in small open fermenters, matured for 10 months in French oak (20% new). The colour is a massive come on, deep in pinot terms, and the palate duly delivers, spicy tannins running through the black cherry and plum fruit in an even, lingering stream.
96 points, drink to 2036, 13.5% alc, Screwcap, $38
2021 Holm Oak Shiraz
Tasmanian shiraz has well and truly arrived, needing no excuses. The crimson-purple hue carries through to the rim, the bouquet and palate offering reprises each time you go back for another sip, the pepper, fresh earth, dark fruits, tannins and oak all contributing.
95 points, drink to 2046, 13.2% alc, Screwcap, $50
