The first two nights saw my glass left half empty the following morning, and I very nearly didn’t bother persevering. I use a progressive 250ml approach, decanting three times: it took three days for this wine to loosen its grip on my mouth. It’s still a massive wine, but rock has turned to velvet – well, that’s a bit of a stretch, I know. It’s I who has surrendered to this cascade of damson plum, black cherry, mulberry and a lick of dark chocolate all in a lattice work of evolving texture that simply got better and better.