Nuits-Saint-Georges missed out when the Grand Crus were formalised in 1935, and there is continuing agitation that its Premier Cru Les Saint Georges should be elevated. Outsiders have no say in this, so it’s easy to be heretical and suggest that – without denigrating Les Saint Georges – a second Premier Cru should be elevated: Aux Boudots.

There are a number of owners of parcels of Aux Boudots, so it doesn’t come down to one flagbearer. Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret is one of my favourites, but as Leroy and Méo-Camuzet also melt my heart, this an exquisite example. The colour alone starts the pulse to quicken, limpid, clear ruby-crimson from the middle of the glass through to the rim.

A parfumeurs’ boutique starts the bouquet, followed immediately by a caravan of spices. That a wine with such stunning impact should be so sensually delicate, flavours wafting to every corner of the mouth, is eerie. So is the play between cherry fruits and a silky gauze of savoury, faintly earthy, tannins, all fanning out with a Peacock’s Tail on the finish and aftertaste. Return to the glass again and again and the magic doesn’t pale.

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