The Snowden family has made throwing down the gauntlet to the tyranny of distance into an art form. Parents Phil and Viv Snowden built a successful mining consultancy business in South Africa; daughter Pam married Patrick Corbett, who was born in County Clare, Ireland. The Corbetts lived in Italy as a young couple, the quartet moving to Australia in the wake of the sale of the Snowden mining business in 2004. There they began anew with the aim of establishing a fine wine establishment, searching far and wide before setting down roots in Denmark. And while that is not the country, it is off the beaten track in the far south of Western Australia, one of the four subregions of the Great Southern. It is here that in 2007 they found a vineyard that had been planted in 1989 in the Scotsdale Valley, planted to chardonnay (3.75ha) and to shiraz and merlot (the latter two were removed).
The chardonnay vineyard is in an idyllic setting, and they built a cellar door, tasting room and restaurant onsite. However, as anticipated, cellar door traffic was minimal, and required a much greater crush (it currently stands at 10,000 cases) to give the business the critical mass it needed. The solution put forward by the mercurial consultant Larry Cherubino was to forgo planting further vines, and instead set up ongoing grape supply contracts, matching variety and terroir across the Great Southern. No sooner had the first major vintage taken place than the Corbetts packed their bags and moved to Sydney to start building the brand up and down the Australian east coast. The Snowdens remained in Western Australia.
The 30 wines on offer are arranged in five varietal collections, starting with six Run Free wines at $26; then the Great Southern and the Single Vineyard Collections (nine wines each, and the heart of the business); next a mini Small Batch Collection (three wines); and at the apex the Limited Release Collection (four wines) at $100. Distilled marketing restraint.
2022 Singlefile Wines Family Reserve Great Southern Chardonnay
Whole bunch pressed to new (33%) and 1yo (67%) French barriques for fermentation then 9 months maturation, the oak absorbed, reflected more in texture than flavour per se. A wine of elegance and overall length, the finish lingering, the aftertaste fresh and promising much for the future.
96 points, drink to 2032, 13.3% alc, Screwcap, $60
2021 Singlefile Wines Clément V
Shiraz, mourvedre and grenache, ex the Riversdale Vineyard in Frankland River, all three vinified separately; matured for 12 months in French barriques (30% new). A harmonious, medium-bodied blend, with a gently spicy backdrop to a mix of red berries and supple plum fruit, the tannins fine spun, the oak likewise.
95 points, drink to 2030, 14.2% alc, Screwcap, $37
2022 Singlefile Wines Great Southern Malbec
The deep, opaque purple colour foretells a deep-set bouquet of blackberry and a dusting of spice. The palate is full-bodied but finishes soft and plush, a description once used in capital city wine shows. For drinking now, or much later, the value obvious.
94 points, drink to 2038, 14.4% alc, Screwcap, $30
