The Barossa Valley’s Alkina Wine Estate and its 60ha of certified biodynamic vineyard is an exercise in crowding wine angels on a pinhead. It dates back to 2012 when Argentinean Alejandro Bulgheroni decided to add Australia to his long term vinous investments in Argentina, Uruguay, Tuscany (6), Bordeaux (2) and Napa Valley (1), Alkina his first in Australia.
In 2022 Alkina crushed 50 tonnes composed of 46 different wines, each vinified in a series of vessels of 320, 550, 700 and 1200l capacity. They come in different shapes and different materials: clay, concrete, stainless steel, but no oak. The crusher/destemmer is sparingly used, 70-100% whole bunch fermentation is designed to minimise over-extraction. Each vessel for the top of the range parcels of grenache, shiraz and mataro may be used for fermentation and maturation. By and large all will be filled to the brim with the fruit from the same polygons each year.
How did this come about? Between 2012 and 2017 the existing 43ha of vineyard was refurbished, a small winery built and a cellar door opened. Then and now Alkina can both sell part of the grapes but also buy some. It also acquired an adjoining 17ha vineyard (The Owens) and the team of consulting experts Alberto Antonini and Pedro Parra put in place, and the Polygon Project was initiated. Rounding out the team is Amelia Nolan (managing director and chief winemaker) and Dan Coward (sales and marketing).
The first step in 2017 was electro conductivity mapping of the whole vineyard at depths of 75cm (soil) and 1.5m (rock), interpreted by Parra’s mapping software that specifies where pits 2m deep and 3m long should be placed, with GPS coordinates for each row number and vine number. Since the start of the programme, more than 150 pits have been dug. A grid of polygons with an average size of 0.3ha yielding between 0.5 and 2 tonnes per hectare (vintage variation) is the ultimate expression of terroir.
2020 Alkina Polygon No. 3 Barossa Valley Grenache
Clear and bright hue, but not deep. A gloriously fragrant, indeed perfumed, bouquet of rosewater and violets, the palate in perfect unison, long and textured, with red fruits and multiple oriental spices. You can see a gentle hand on the tiller. 680 bottles.
97 points, drink to 2030, 13.3% alc, Screwcap, $295
2020 Alkina Polygon No. 5 Barossa Valley Grenache
More depth to the purple-crimson colour than Polygon No. 3, and a darker expression on the bouquet and palate alike, black cherries add a note as do the rolled gold tannins. Overall rich, and velvety in the mouth, its depth, balance and length will give it exceptional longevity. 695 bottles.
97 points, drink to 2040, 13.7% alc, Screwcap, $295
2022 Alkina Old Quarter Barossa Valley Grenache Shiraz Mataro
A 60/35/5% blend; deep, saturated crimson-purple. An entirely different play to that of its ’21 sibling, emanating polished leather, black licorice and satsuma plum. It isn’t just a collection of bits and pieces, the synergy beating a big bass drum of a wine of memorable quality. 130 dozen bottles.
95 points, drink to 2040, 14% alc, Screwcap, $100
