Delamere
Between fly fishing for trout and wine tasting in the Tasmanian Wine Show and cellar doors over a 50-year span, I’ve come to know Tasmania pretty well. Were it not for the intrusion of a corporate law practice I fancy I might have spent even more time on the island, and ferreted out even more of its ever-changing landscape and/or climate.
Fran Austin and Shane Holloway (plus family support) acquired Delamere Vineyards in 2007, both with experience of Tasmanian viniculture that warned them to expect the unexpected. So it was that for the first time in Delamere’s history that no still wines were made in the 2020 vintage. In the lead up through September/October cold nights balanced warm days, but dry and windy conditions caused stunted canopy growth, and as time clicked by towards 2020 a late season loomed. Above average warmth in December and January gave hopes of a catch-up, but a cold and windy February put an end to that with poor flowering and a consequent low yield from hen and chicken bunches.
They decided to pick the entire crop early while pickers were still available, Covid-19 still tightening its clutch. The bonus of no bird damage and no botrytis meant pristine fruit albeit in small quantities. The 2020 base wines ‘came in with incredible natural acidity…and awesome depth of flavour’ writes Fran. My choice for the featured sparkling wine involved a lengthy debate (with myself) between an elegant 2015 Blanc de Blancs and the Rose. The complexity and power of the non vintage Rose comes from 20% reserve wine, 3% from 2019, 4% 2018, 5% each of 2017 and 2014, and 3% of 2016 and 2015. The pinot noir fraction in old hogsheads, the 2014 in bottle under light ferment pressure. All the wine went through malolactic fermentation, and spent 15 months on tirage, with a dosage of 5g/l.
It’s a hard way to make a living.
2021 Delamere Vineyards Pinot Noir
Deep though brightly coloured wine is typically Tasmanian, grading towards magenta on the rim. A convocation of red, blue, purple and black cherries illuminates the bouquet, but doesn’t warn you of the sheer intensity of a spectacular palate that shouts Vosne-Romanee from the rooftops. There’s both textural and spicy/savoury pinot essence at work, making it impossible to wait its turn, 30% whole bunches perfectly judged. 204 dozen.
98 points, drink to 2037, 13.4% alc, Screwcap, $65
2021 Delamere Vineyards Chardonnay
Hand-picked, pressed direct to French barriques and foudres; fermentation and 100% mlf both completed naturally; 10 months maturation with lees stirring. The spine of tungsten acidity is a Tasmanian unique signature, not to be undertaken lightly.
95 points, drink to 2036, 13.3% alc, Screwcap, $65
NV Delamere Vineyards Non Vintage Rose
Pale salmon hue and a fine, persistent mousse. A wine stacked with spiced strawberries, wild and cultivated, and pomegranate aromas that continue without hesitation on an emphatic high quality palate. The end result is a wine of great complexity.
96 points, drink to 2033, 13.1% alc, Diam, $42
