Henschke is the greatest family-owned winery in Australia. The Hill of Grace Vineyard is a unique asset with tangible and intangible value beyond calculation. It has been nurtured by six generations of the Henschke family, the Koh-i-Noor jewel in the crown of the portfolio of vineyards centred on the Eden Valley. Since 1979 chief winemaker Stephen Henschke, quietly spoken but with a twinkle in his eye, and wife, chief viticulturist Prue, with her air of quiet calm, have single-mindedly polished the jewel. Woe betide anyone who thinks the words ‘Hill of…’ might be a nice name for a new business.
Next month’s global release of the 2018 Hill of Grace (and the five other wines from that vintage) is breathtaking; these are wines of exceptional beauty. Stephen Henschke had this to say about the wines: ‘2018 was a year of wonder for several reasons. We celebrated 150 years of Henschke family winemaking and 60 years since Cyril captured that first shimmering edition of Hill of Grace. That year, nature collaborated too, delivering an exceptional season. The 2018 Hill of Grace sings with the rains that nurtured, the sun that warmed, and the nights that cooled. It reflects the inherent characters of this wondrous vineyard site with exotic spices, plush complex layers of fruit, pure fine acidity and long, velvety tannins.’
He also points out ‘Every vintage of Hill of Grace is a limited release, however some are more limited than others. There was none made in 1960, 1974, 2000 and 2011, just one barrel in 2003, and extremely tiny vintages for 2013, 2014, 2019 and 2020.’ Happily, the quantity made in this (2018) vintage is the highest since 2012, but it will still be sold on strict allocation, with the two following vintages doubly so. When the area of shiraz dedicated to Hill of Grace – 4.12 hectares – is factored in, small wonder you’ll never see Hill of Grace in a retail shop.
A single bottle purchase limit applies – www.henschke.com.au
2018 Henschke Hill of Grace
Matured in mainly French oak (20% new) for 18 months. It opens with gloriously heady scents of wild herbs, spice and pepper, thence flawlessly balanced dark berry fruits, velvet tannins and quicksilver acidity. It’s not often a red wine with a 30+ year future is ready for consumption from day one.
99 points, drink to 2050, 14.5% alc, Screwcap, $950
2018 Henschke Hill of Roses
A single 0.94ha block of shiraz, planted 1989. First made in 2001, then and now still too young for inclusion in the Hill of Grace. The perfumed bouquet of cherries and blood plum leads into a palate that literally dances in the mouth, but does so with supreme elegance.
98 points, drink to 2048, 14.5% alc, Vinolok, $455
2018 Henschke Hill of Peace
The 0.53ha 100% semillon block was planted in 1952. The gently floral bouquet is followed by a lively, fresh palate with Meyer lemon and Granny Smith apple flavours on the lingering finish.
95 points, drink to 2038, 11.5% alc, Screwcap, $70
