Any account of the history of winemaking in Margaret River must acknowledge the true father of the region: Dr John Gladstones AM, a scientist of awesome intelligence. Much of his working life as an agronomist was devoted to lupins, a significant source of fodder for cattle. Central to this was unravelling climate, soils and their interaction. The 1960s witnessed the stirrings of viniculture (sic) across Australia after decades of somnolence, a spark lit by Max Lake in the Hunter Valley when he established Lake’s Folly in 1963. Gladstones wrote two scientific papers in 1965 and 1966. The first covered the climate and soils of the south-west of Australia, and was followed with a paper focusing on the Margaret River-Busselton area. These lit a flame that has burnt bright for the next 55 years.
At that time Margaret River was an unprepossessing region, sparsely populated, surfing along the coastline by a handful of devotees, its beaches the chief appeal to tourists. The three doctors who conducted the early viticultural developments were Tom Cullity (Vasse Felix, 1967), Bill Pannell (Moss Wood, 1969) and Kevin Cullen (Cullen Wines, 1971). They had professional careers; they had family lives, initially with young children; and were driven men who had to work extraordinarily long hours, as often sleeping in the back of cars or farm sheds as frequently as their home beds.
In typical Australian fashion, they shared knowledge gained the hard way, and lay the path for another seven wineries by 1973, most notably Cape Mentelle and Leeuwin Estate; today there are over 180 regional wineries. The three doctors (and their wineries) rank first among equals. Not all varieties and wines can be so classified. Few would challenge cabernet sauvignon’s right to be ranked first, but Margaret River’s greatest cabernets are different to each other in the way they disseminate their character.
Denis Horgan established Leeuwin Estate in 1973, and planted a magic block of soil with chardonnay which I have long described as Australia’s greatest example of the variety. Margaret River is a many splendoured place.
2020 Moss Wood Wilyabrup Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon
It only takes a split second for this wine to establish its greatness in the pantheon of cabernet sauvignons grown around the world, pulsating with sweet fruits and velvety mouthfeel. This is a cabernet to melt a pinot noir addict’s heart.
98 points, drink to 2050, 14% alc, Screwcap, $160
2022 Moss Wood Ribbon Vale Elsa
Sauvignon blanc (94%) and semillon (6%), fermentation was initiated in stainless steel, then transferred to French barriques (6% new) to complete fermentation and full mlf; matured in barrel for 9 months. it is a wine that takes no prisoners. Margaret River’s dominance is absolute in its texture and structure.
95 points, drink to 2032, 13% alc, Screwcap, $71
2021 Moss Wood Amy’s
A 68/20/7/5% blend of estate-grown cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec and petit verdot, its colour is bright, fresh crimson, the bouquet fragrant, and the palate is already complete and balanced. Its purpose-built for consumption over the next three or four years, but if for any reason it’s left unopened for 10 years it will still be fresh.
94 points, drink to 2029, 13.5% alc, Screwcap, $45
