Yalumba is the most senior member of the Australian First Families of Wine, and one of a very small group of family-owned wineries founded in the first half of the 19th century, and which have continued in business to this day across six generations. Samuel Smith had migrated from England to South Australia, aged 35, with wife Mary and five children, and leaving a successful business as a brewer. He also found his way to Angaston, and employment by day with George Fife Angas, creating gardens and orchards, and at night he began planting a small vineyard on a 12ha block.
When he died in 1889, Samuel Smith and Son was a thriving business, with markets in Australia and England. In 1903 the vintage of 810,000 litres marked its ongoing success. The Hill-Smith family tree is far flung, but the family has produced a series of great individuals – characters, perhaps – that have made visionary decisions leading to its multi-faceted activities of today. The key males in the family have more often than not married women with as much charisma as their husbands.
The core of the business is, of course, grape growing and winemaking. Its vineyards are variously planted in Eden Valley, Barossa Valley, Riverland, Wrattonbully, Coonawarra and Tasmania, supplemented by grapes purchased from contract growers. It has more than 150 wines, with a price range of $13 to $365, spanning table, sparkling and fortified styles.
It has a major in-house cooperage, French oak dominant. The vine nursery is the largest winery-owned commercial vine propagation business in Australasia. Its trifecta of Negociants Australia, Negociants New Zealand and Negociants International operates in the global import/export wine business.
It has long been active in managing its activities sustainably. In 2016 it installed what was then the largest solar power system at an Australian winery, and today provides 23% of the power required for its winery operations. It is actively pursuing a carbon neutrality target by 2050, as well as reaching considerable reduction targets by 2030.
2018 Yalumba The Caley Coonawarra Barossa Cabernet Shiraz
80% estate-grown cabernet, 15% Eden Valley/5% Barossa Valley shiraz; spent 20 months in French oak (38% new). A deep pool of plush cassis/blackcurrant fruit. An exercise in elegance.
97 points, drink to 2043, 14% alc, Cork, $365
2018 Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Barossa Shiraz
69/31% Eden Valley and Barossa Valley; hand-picked vines, with an average age of 111 years. Has come a long way since its 100% new American oak birth. The oak is 100% French (25% new) and matured for 21 months. The scented cherry flavours and fruits establish a delicious fresh fruit stream, the tannins fine and supple.
96 points, drink to 2038, 14.5% alc, Cork, $150
2018 Yalumba The Signature Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz
54% cabernet sauvignon and 46% shiraz; matured for 21 months in French, Hungarian and American oak (33% new). Like its siblings, it has very good colour; overall it is robust, medium- to full-bodied and dark-fruited; the oak and the tannins balanced. One for the cellar.
95 points, drink to 2043, 14.5% alc, Cork, $65
