The late Stuart Hooper’s love of Burgundy lay behind his decision to establish Bannockburn in 1973/74. A successful business man and pastoralist, he already had substantial agricultural holdings in the Geelong region when he planted the first vines in this decidedly cool climate. His commitment to the project was absolute, and his vision was long term: neither time nor money would blur that vision.
Geelong had had a flying start to establish its reputation in the early 1860s. In 1864 the chronicler Ebenezer Ward detailed more than 50 vineyards spread around the region, one of the largest in Victoria. Ironically, phylloxera was discovered the next year, and by 1881 the first vine pull scheme in Australia recorded the compulsory removal of all vineyards in Geelong.
Hooper’s commitment was put to the test when the first plantings failed to take in the absence of water. A dam was created, and the replanted vines began to take shape. A winery was built with state-of-the-art equipment, and Gary Farr installed as winemaker.
I was next to see Farr in September 1983 in the courtyard of Domaine Dujac, a celebrated winery in Morey-St-Denis, without either of us knowing that the other was also to undertake the upcoming vintage. We both came away with a new perspective on Burgundy and pinot noir, leading Bannockburn to close planting, and whole berry/bunch fermentation amongst other things.
In 1987 Lucas Grigsby joined as viticulturist. In the demanding climate he has the care of 24 vineyard blocks, 8 grape varieties and 16 clones, with some of the oldest vines in the region. The low fertility soils are well drained, and facilitated the move to organic certification. Matt Holmes was appointed winemaker in 2015 with experience gleaned around the world. His mantra is simple: ‘Well nourished vines grown in a suitable spot, picked on the right day, transcribed as wine.’
Bannockburn remains in the Hooper family, with his daughters as custodians to ensure his philosophy is preserved.
2022 Bannockburn Vineyards Geelong Chardonnay
Four blocks planted between 1976 and 2016; hand-picked, whole bunch-pressed, wild yeast fermented in French oak (20% new); 10 months maturation. Fills the mouth with velvety richness (70% mlf doubtless the source), sweeps you up into its folds.
96 points, drink to 2037, 13% alc, Screwcap, $70
2022 Bannockburn Vineyards Geelong Pinot Noir
From vines planted 1976-2007 on conventional and close plantings; primarily MV6, wild fermented with 20% whole bunch, including some carbonic maceration. The bouquet is at once very expressive and complex with purple and red berries, and high-toned Asian spices, the palate following in the footprints of the bouquet and first-up savoury fruits.
97 points, drink to 2037, 13.5% alc, Screwcap, $70
2022 Bannockburn Vineyards Geelong Gamay
The first release of a small block planted in 2014 and grafted to gamay in 2019. Ferment initiated with 100% whole bunch carbonic maceration, then destemmed and pressed to a barrique for 10 months maturation. Very attractive cherry (sour and black) fruit, and lovely tension ex superfine tannins.
94 points, drink to 2032, 12.5% alc, Screwcap, $45
