As one of the events celebrating the release of the 2018 Hill of Grace, 27 wine professionals (writers, sommeliers et al) were treated to a vertical tasting of 27 selected vintages spanning the inaugural vintage of 1958 through to the 2018. The tasting was fascinating, with a wealth of background to the changes over the 60 years of unremitting attention to the health of the vineyard, and the special care of the Ancestor and Centenarian Vines.
Each of the six blocks of Hill of Grace is handled individually. The Ancestor Vines of the 0.56ha Grandfathers Block are circa 160 years old, and the Centenarian vines of the 0.33ha Post Office Block 1 are 122 years old. ‘Centenarian and Ancestor vines provide the magical ingredients in Hill of Grace … They deliver berries of incomparable texture and complexity, which gives Hill of Grace its trademark elegance, intensity and finesse,’ writes Stephen.
The texture of soil health derived from mulch compost and the ban of herbicide and insecticide sprays is plain to see: fat earthworms in every handful of dark soil laced with fine roots of indigenous grasses, herbs and such like. Fill both hands with excavated soil and it feels light and moist even in dry spells, invisibly mended by organisms too small to see. And when it does rain, it drains freely.
Compaction of the soil due to tractor traffic is a problem for all viticulturists. Thus the horse has been brought back to the great vineyards of Burgundy because there is little or no compaction, but what about Australia? Over the past few years robotic or autonomous vehicles have been evaluated. But for the time being, the human eye and mind will be first and foremost, inspired by Prue Henschke when she says ‘My mantra is living within the landscape. We need to ensure our created environment sits in a healthy balance with our natural landscape. I would like to see the next generation inherit a fertile and sustainable land.’
2018 Henschke Mount Edelstone
More youthful, with a deeper and brighter colour, than The Wheelwright. 106yo vineyard. Matured 20 months in 27% new (77% French, 23% American) hogsheads. Glorious wine. Untold depths of the richest blackberry and plum fruit with a magically bright finish ex livewire acidity.
99 points, drink to 2048, 14.5% alc, Screwcap, $245
2018 Henschke The Wheelwright
Matured 18 months in 21% new (65% French, 35% American) hogsheads. Planted 1968 by Cyril Henschke. Exceptional fragrance; balanced on the first sip to the finish and aftertaste, and glides across the palate. Some oak complexity. A perfect model of medium-bodied shiraz; juicy and supple.
97 points, drink to 2043, 14.5% alc, Screwcap, $150
2018 Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon
The wine includes splashes of 2% merlot and 1% cabernet franc. Matured 18 months in French hogsheads (10% new). Singularly elegant and graceful, with precise judgement of oak and handling of tannins.
95 points, drink to 2038, 14.5% alc, Screwcap, $175
