One time successful geologist and oil explorer John Davis has assembled an empire of vineyards with its nerve centre in the Hunter Valley, and extending to Orange, Wrattonbully and Coonawarra. He has either purchased existing vineyards or planted them, building on his already considerable knowledge as he did so. Thus when he purchased Briar Ridge in 1988, he pulled out its existing vineyard that had been planted in 1972 and reoriented the rows.
The vineyard is situated high up on Mount View Road, bare land and a favourite picnic spot in the late 1950s for my first trips to the Hunter. Today it is Briar Ridge’s cellar door run by John Davis’ daughter, Jaclyn, in one of the most beautiful locations in the Valley. The purchase of Tallavera Grove Vineyards in 1994 (also in Mount View, and adjacent to Briar Ridge) and Pepper Tree in 2002 marked significant expansions, none more so than that of Pepper Tree.
It came with vines, but more important was the high quality winery capable of handling all of the fruit for the Hunter Valley brands plus the option of handling some of Carillion’s Orange grapes. At another level, grapes can be used by any one of the entities – as is the case with any other group asset.
2013 was a typical Hunter Valley growing season: winter and spring were dry, and January saw the heat intensifying, hitting 45.7˚C in Sydney until 150mm of rain fell on Australia Day. Most of the semillon had been picked, and a subsequent week of dry weather saw harvest completed by February 17.
Consultant winemaker Jim Chatto was brought in to help with the vintage, and remembers the difficulties well. It’s one of those serendipitous moments that I should have tasted the 2013 museum wines profiled this week, and spoken to Jim Chatto and John Davis to find that he (Chatto) has once again taken the consulting role in the wake of Gwyn Olsen’s move to Henschke.
2013 Pepper Tree Wines Museum Release Limited Release Tallawanta Single Vineyard Hunter Valley Semillon
Tallawanta is best known for its sublime shirazs, but if the vintage was very good the semillon is nipping at its heels. This wine is glorious, too great to spit out. The detail, the balance, the length, the aftertaste, all perfect.
99 points, drink to 2053, 11.5% alc, Screwcap, $130
2013 Pepper Tree Wines Museum Release Coquun Single Vineyard Reserve Hunter Valley Shiraz
Ex the Tallawanta Vineyard. 5-day cold soak then warmed for inoculation with cultured yeast; matured for 18 months in French puncheons (40% new). Lovely shiraz; gloriously complex and textured, ripe tannins.
98 points, drink to 2053, 14.5% alc, Screwcap, $140
2013 Pepper Tree Wines Museum Release Alluvius Single Vineyard Reserve Hunter Valley Semillon
From the Braemore Vineyard planted on alluvial sandy soil. Whole bunch-pressed, only free run juice used. Glorious 10yo wine, the purity is almost painful so intense is it. Lemon zest, Granny Smith apple; acidity perfect. Finesse on the highest scale
97 points, drink to 2048, 10.7% alc, Screwcap, $90
