James Halliday’s articles
The making of Prinz wines
It's for long been an often true saying in Australia that all droughts end in floods, but Germany? Well, 2018-20 were drought years in the Rheingau, and the 2021 vintage was pre-empted by flood in some parts – no more than the Ahr Valley, and...
2002 Simon Bize & Fils Bourgogne Les Perrières
Having consumed a bottle of the '05 sibling of this wine (a very good vintage, and better rated), I wasn't expecting this wine to match it, but I was in for some pleasant surprises. For one thing, the colour is still remarkably deep, the bouquet...
Wynnsday Collection: Every wine in it shares the drive for elegance and purity
I write today's piece on the day (October 6) that I completed my tasting of this year's Wynnsday Collection, and the same day Allen Jenkins announced his retirement as Wynns' viticulturist. He and senior winemaker Sue Hodder have worked together...
1983 Paul Jaboulet Aîne La Chapelle Hermitage
My holding of this wine is decreasing, and since I've been drinking it since it was imported into Australia (and into my cellar) 30 years ago it's hardly surprising. What is surprising is the way it's showing no signs of moving into senescence. The...
Domaine Naturaliste
Bruce Dukes has packed a large amount of vine and wine knowledge into a 30-year career. The journey started with a degree in agriculture at the University of Western Australia (1985-90), next working as assistant winemaker at Margaret River’s...
House of Arras: a jewel of the Apple Isle
Fly fishing (for trout) drew me to Tasmania long before the birth of the Tasmanian Wine Show in 1991. The former gave me a bias eye view of the exceptionally varied topography of the island, and the differing patterns of wind and rainfall. Thus...
2005 Simon Bize & Fils Bourgogne Les Perrières
The colour shows no signs of fading, nor does the bouquet, and even less the palate. Wafts of oriental spice, and the particular earth/bramble that comes from whole bunch fermentation - when the grapes are fully ripe and disease free. The mouthfeel...
The making of Angove Family wines
As foreshadowed in my article of 31 July on the vineyards past and present, I take up the tale in the Tea Tree Gully area just north east of today's Adelaide. When William Thomas Angove emigrated to South Australia with his wife and five children...
2001 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Premier Cru Nuits-Saint-Georges Aux Boudots
Nuits-Saint-Georges missed out when the Grand Crus were formalised in 1935, and there is continuing agitation that its Premier Cru Les Saint Georges should be elevated. Outsiders have no say in this, so it's easy to be heretical and suggest that –...
Living Roots: a foot in each hemisphere
Anyone involved in hospitality comes face-to-face with the thousands of devils in every detail of planning as the premiers of every State throw up lockdowns as if they were engaged in a game of two-up. Except it's worse than that, because there are...
